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Post by Ding Carpio on Jan 21, 2008 22:16:21 GMT
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Post by Ding Carpio on Jan 10, 2008 9:01:13 GMT
I recall seeing some Manfrotto monopods at Island Photo at Gamboa, Makati. From experience, prices here of Manfrotto *pods are comparable to those abroad.
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Post by Ding Carpio on Jan 11, 2008 4:25:17 GMT
I will be there! Almost couldn't though. While fooling around with my daughter last night, lost balance, and broke my fall by ramming my ribs on the electric fan. Xray shows no broken bones but all musles bunched up. So I get a free day drugged up, watching movies and surfing. But will be at Trees tomorrow, limping or not! THE BOOKS OF DING AND RAUL ARE STILL WITH ME. Ding, I'll see you tomorrow in Makiling? I'll surely be there. See you at Trees or Botanic. The price is P680.00
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Post by Ding Carpio on Dec 23, 2007 21:42:57 GMT
Yes, pls send me your BPI number. Kahiya na it's been too long. Also been aching to drool over Bobby's pics. If you're ever in Boso-boso, perhaps you can leave my copy there and I can pick it up? I still have the authographed copies for DING AND RAUL. MANNY, DID YOU GET YOUR COPY FROM JP? I will forward to you guys my BPI account no. Bobby, I will deposit the collection Dec. 27. together with the payment for 1 binoc 3. thanks, te lyd.
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Post by Ding Carpio on Dec 25, 2007 22:17:38 GMT
Can I still get one, Tina?
Don't know what I'd use it for, yet but I'm sure I'll figure out something. Also don't know how I'll get it but will also figure something out.
Or, if you don't mind asking Air21 (or some courier) to pick it up, I can xfer payment to your account.
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Post by Ding Carpio on Jan 16, 2008 11:51:53 GMT
Woo-hoo! One big drawback of getting this lens: You have absolutely no more excuse for taking less-than-Oconific shots! Let me guess: Next will be a Gitzo tripod, 3421 head, 1DMk3, Lowepro backpack...
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Post by Ding Carpio on Dec 22, 2007 1:48:06 GMT
Oops! As I was re-reading this thread, realized I switched my comments for Binocs2 and 3. Hope I didn't confuse anyone. BTW, I'm learning the rudimetaries of using binoculars. Takes some getting used to when it's powerful (jiggling) and when you wear glasses (diopter adj). Also need to develop the habit of not rolling my eyes/focus but, instead, move the binoculars and my head with it. Found out that the trick is to keep my pupils centered and parallel to the lenses: If you want to look up, tilt back your head, not your eyeballs. Hmmm...maybe I should start a thread on tips on binocularing. Got 'em! They're really sharp. Binocs2: It's called the Kenko 8x25 Artos Waterproof. Light and sharp Binocs3: It's called the Kenko 12x42 Volare. Waterproof, sharp, and powerful Love 'em both. I'm sure my daughter'll have a ball with Binocs2 while I'd have Binocs3 strapped permanently to my neck. Checked out internet prices and found out I paid less than 1/3 the internet price for Artos (even with shipping)! Thanks so much, Bobby.
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Post by Ding Carpio on Dec 21, 2007 8:17:24 GMT
Got 'em! They're really sharp.
Binocs2: It's called the Kenko 8x25 Artos Waterproof. Light and sharp
Binocs3: It's called the Kenko 12x42 Volare. Waterproof, sharp, and powerful
Love 'em both. I'm sure my daughter'll have a ball with Binocs2 while I'd have Binocs3 strapped permanently to my neck.
Checked out internet prices and found out I paid less than 1/3 the internet price for Artos (even with shipping)!
Thanks so much, Bobby.
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Post by Ding Carpio on Jan 24, 2008 21:22:50 GMT
Butting in: Mine, too.
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Post by Ding Carpio on Jan 18, 2008 21:16:40 GMT
I like it! I think I'll include this in my batch action!
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Post by Ding Carpio on Jan 4, 2008 0:48:50 GMT
Amounts are actually dependent on the photo itself. I usually end up with a radius of less than 1 (0.6 to 0.7) though occasionally go up to 1 for really blurred shots. I then slide the amount as high as I can tolerate (halo) then slide back a bit.
I found this works only when there are lots of parallel lines that are blurred and set the angle perpendicular to it. I also use NeatImage for Noise Reduction and do some sharpening there as well so it's a balancing act for me.
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Post by Ding Carpio on Jan 3, 2008 21:47:27 GMT
Which Smart Sharpen do you use? I'm partial towards Motion Blur whenever there are many parallel edges (as in feather pattern) then set the angle of the motion blur perpendicular to the edges.
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Post by Ding Carpio on Dec 28, 2007 20:21:40 GMT
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Post by Ding Carpio on Jan 5, 2008 5:44:43 GMT
Just to be ethical about it, the photo is not mine. It's passed on to me as well by I-forgot-who already. There are others on the net but this one is probably clearest. Cheers! Thanks for sharing this photo DIng, it's very helpful.
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Post by Ding Carpio on Jan 5, 2008 3:48:54 GMT
Which pins of the kenko TC do you tape to get AF? Thanks Here's a photo of taped pins:
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Post by Ding Carpio on Dec 27, 2007 7:52:51 GMT
Been thinking about taping the pins for sometime now. Forced myself to learn manual focus when shooting with my 400mmL + 1.4 Kenko. Now that I think I have developed the skill, I will allow myself to deviate a bit from my stubborn old school inclination and do AF with taped pins. My final hesitation, though, is that the EXIF gets messed up. It will report 400mm instead of 560. Is there a downloadable utility somewhere I can use to correct my EXIF? I'd recommend the Kenko Pro 1.4x instead - as good as the Canon and Sigma in IQ, no protruding front element so you can physically fit it at the back of most lenses, plus AF works better at f/8 with 1.6 CF bodies if the pins are taped. Romy
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Post by Ding Carpio on Dec 22, 2007 3:00:09 GMT
Thought I’d contribute my workflow for whatever it’s worth.
First off, I shoot in RAW. After uploading into my PC, I then view each one in full-screen to assign ratings (stars) based on clarity. I progressively weed out the bad ones until I have a bunch of passable/keepers. I then convert these keepers into Adobe DNG format which is my preferred format for RAW archival.
For each DNG file, I then do RAW PP, usually adjusting colors, contrast, curves, bright/dark; but not applying any sharpening or noise reduction. At this point, I may further weed out undesirables. I then apply metadata (keywords) . These would be Copyright, location, bird ID.
Next, I run an action to convert the DNGs into TIFFs with Layers. My preferred layers are Levels, Curves, and a Channel Mixer Layer where I set RGB values to boost each color by about 150% but set opacity of this layer down to 25%. I learned this technique simulates the Fuji Velvia color saturation of the good old film days. The action also creates a copy of the background layer which is where I do more PP later. If I make a mistake too far to undo, I still have the untouched image in the background. The TIFFs are also generated in 16-bit (maybe I should go 32?) and in Prophoto RGB colorspace because I read somewhere that it has a wider gamut than SRGB or ARGB.
Now I work with the TIFFs. I do PP on each photo by adjusting levels, curves, and the channel mixer (usually changing opacity). On the background copy layer, I apply NeatImage noise reduction. I normally include some sharpening within NeatImage. After NeatImage, I then crop. The reason why I only crop at this point is that I want to preserve the entire picture for NeatImage so that there’s more of the photo I can sample from when creating a noise profile for the specific image.
If the resulting image still needs sharpening, I first duplicate the image layer and perform sharpening on that new layer. I usually use USM but, on occasion, use Smart Sharpen’s Motion Blur which I find useful when there are lots of parallel edges I want to sharpen (e.g. layers of wing feathers). If the image’s background (e.g. leaves and sky behind the bird) gets sharpened too much, I create a layer mask and brush black onto this area; in effect, making the unsharpened-but-noise-reduced image behind this layer peek through.
When I’m happy with the result, I save it and move on to the next TIFF file.
When done with all the TIFFs, I run an action that converts the TIFFs into JPEGs (8-bit, SRGB). The JPEGs are what I upload into my website but I keep the TIFFs and DNGs for archival.
I have a 250gb disk where I keep my photos but back up onto another portable hard disk. Whenever I can find the time, I burn backups also onto DVDs. The DVDs and backup hard disk are all kept in different locations (I’m a paranoid).
The process is not continuous, BTW, as wife and kids offer the most pleasant distractions.
Hope this helps. I’d be happy to answer questions and, by all means, please criticize or suggest. Cross-pollination is a great way to learn.
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Post by Ding Carpio on Dec 11, 2007 22:15:12 GMT
This technique is called the "Neon Rustle."
When you chance upon a Nightjar in the daytime (when s/he's normally asleep) and wish to take a photo with eyes open (the nightjar's and yours), try shaking the leaves of a nearby tree.
Technique discovered by Neon Rosell (wink wink pun pun).
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Post by Ding Carpio on Feb 9, 2008 2:44:39 GMT
Shouldn't that be "pretty and witty and GAY!"? Did they change the lyrics to make it more PC? Now you've done it. We now expect more postcards from you!
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Post by Ding Carpio on Jan 24, 2008 21:18:35 GMT
Let me guess: You took this shot with a 50mm lens 2 feet away! ;D Are those eyebrows I see? Got more to share to this thread. Here's an old and grumpy 12-foot gator
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