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Post by Tonji Ramos on Oct 24, 2010 23:40:22 GMT
I am looking for a way to mount our flash units so I won't get the steel or red eye problem when using a flash.
Should the flash be mounted in front of the camera, above the camera, or both.
Any product suggestions? Any stuff available locally?
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Post by ppaaoolloo on Oct 25, 2010 1:44:36 GMT
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Post by Tonji Ramos on Oct 25, 2010 2:00:37 GMT
Wow! Thanks Pao. Any ideas where I can get the foot? I can have this made in a machine shop. Cool.
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Post by mantarey on Oct 25, 2010 9:09:55 GMT
Don't get your hopes up too high Tonj. Heard that it doesn't work with birds so better shoot it in the original shoe and just find a way to remove the red or steely eye though I could be wrong.
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Post by Tonji Ramos on Oct 26, 2010 0:56:10 GMT
Thanks Rey. I am going to have to experiment with flash and see what works. At least this thing is cheap.
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Post by mantarey on Oct 26, 2010 2:12:42 GMT
That's good Tonj, then you'll teach us how to do it.
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Post by Enrique Frio on Oct 26, 2010 12:04:23 GMT
Hi Tonji, A while ago in Thailand, I experimented with a Stroboframe-like bracket mounted with 2 flashes (580 EX II and 420 EX) as seen here: cgi.ebay.ph/Flash-Bracket-Stroboframe-Camera-Flip-Type-/290459837029?pt=AU_Cameras_Photographic_Accessories&hash=item43a0c16265I bought it online when it was much cheaper. You can swivel the camera for vertical shots quite easily. I attached the 580EX2 to the built-in hotshoe (which you can move around and tighten) and the 420EX mounted on the flash stand that comes with it secured by white cable ties. I attached it to my Manfrotto head (Manfrotto 468MGRC4 Hydrostatic Ball Head with RC4 Rapid Connect System ) beneath the 100-400 lens foot - so the two flashes were above the 7D and served as a redundancy for continuous flash output. Both were triggered by the Canon ST-E2 flash trigger (1:1 ratio) on the 7D hotshoe (The 7D flash itself can trigger both Speedlites, but I wanted to try out the ST-E2). The whole rig was on a Manfrotto monopod (the one with three small "legs" at its foot ). Here's a sample image of a White-rumped Shama (Copsychus malabaricus)ExposureTime - 1/60 seconds FNumber - 7.10 ExposureProgram - Manual control ISOSpeedRatings - 800 SubjectDistance - 5.46 m Flash - Flash fired, Compulsory flash mode FocalLength - 400 mmNeedless to say, the flash was firing about 90% of the time, and the bird got so curious that I was able to get her at around 5 meters near me! The feathers are sharp and have a nice depth, while the eye - well, just have a look. I was expecting two light source spots in the eye reflections, but then I realized that the two flashes combined as just one light source. Caveat - this rig is HEAVY, and slows down my preferred run and gun style a lot. YMMV - your mileage may vary. Let us know how it goes! P.S. Sorry for the noisy BG - just a quick reply here.P.S.2 I was going to attach 2 Better Beamers to the flashes but something kept me from it - I can't remember now what it was ....
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Post by Tonji Ramos on Oct 26, 2010 12:24:39 GMT
Two flash units wow, the picture is great Enrique. Flash really brings out those feather details.
I got an cheap bracket. And got the Canon OC-E3 Off-camera shoe cord. I also have a 580ex2 and a better beemer. The flash looks nice and tall now hopefully no more steel eye.
I have to practice more. I share your dislike for more weight and clutter. But being able to take in the shadows, late in the day or even at night is worth the added weight I guess.
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Post by Enrique Frio on Oct 26, 2010 12:39:32 GMT
Thanks, Tonji! I need to experiment more too with the High-sync modes. ISO800 (the new 400! hurray!) is pretty good and allows the flashes to recycle faster. As for bird "steel-eye", if your flashes are continuously firing, the ones after the first shot would most probably have no problems. It's not that I dislike added weight/ clutter - I just feel the pain after the days' shoot when I finally sit down hehe. Also, my philosophy is not to make the flashes the main light, so I have a "properly" exposed photo even if the flashes don't fire (bar subject motion). It's the minus EV compensation that one needs to experiment on to avoid the bird from looking obviously flashed. Shoot lots and find the keepers (pun!) - have fun and let us know how it goes!
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