|
Post by Romy Ocon on Dec 22, 2007 3:52:22 GMT
In my view, getting the desired composition right using the whole frame ( no cropping, or throwing away any pixel) is among the most challenging aspects of wild bird photography. In my tens of thousands of bird photos, I can count with my fingers the rare times I was able to do this. One must not only find the subject in good light, pose and environment, but he/she should also get within the correct shooting distance so that focal length used is just right to frame the composition. Likewise, the subject must cooperate so there's enough time to fine-tune settings. Full-framing is much easier said than done, of course, as everybody knows how shy our birds are. So folks, let's try this challenge - post your full frame bird photos here (uncropped but downressed to your convenient size). Share the shooting detail if possible, as it might be useful for others to emulate. No prizes, except the satisfaction of showing the gang that it can be done... ;D ;D ;D Let me post a couple to start the ball rolling: 1. Pied Bushchat ( Saxicola caprata, female) - 40D + 500 f4 L IS + stacked Canon/Tamron 1.4x TCs, 1000 mm, f/14, 1/125 sec, ISO 250, Ix! bean bag 2. Brown Shrike ( Lanius cristatus) - 40D + Sigmonster + Sigma 1.4x TC, 1120 mm, f/13, 1/60 sec, ISO 1250, MF via Live View, manual exposure, 475B tripod/3421 gimbal head Ok folks, can you rise up to the challenge? Let's see your full frames! Romy
|
|
|
Post by Bobby Kintanar on Dec 22, 2007 10:59:30 GMT
Here are some of my Full-frame captures - they ceratinly are not at par with the Master's works, but they are Full-frame: Brown Shrike:Redshank:
|
|
|
Post by Romy Ocon on Dec 22, 2007 13:24:31 GMT
These are excellent, Bobby.... nice compositions and tons of detail! I bet you can easily print these to 12"x18" or even 16"x24" and feather detail is still decent even when viewed up close... Romy Here are some of my Full-frame captures - they ceratinly are not at par with the Master's works, but they are Full-frame: Brown Shrike:Redshank:
|
|
|
Post by Neon Rosell II on Dec 22, 2007 16:54:03 GMT
Here are some of my full frame shots. ;D Will try to process them again using my latest PP work flow and see the difference, will post the new version later. Blue Rock Thrush - Male ( Monticola solitarius) 30D + 300 f4 L IS + Kenko 2x TCs, 600 mm, f/8, 1/90 sec, ISO 640, Hand Held Olive-backed Sunbird - adult Male ( Cinnyris jugularis) - 30D + 300 f4 L IS + Kenko 2x TCs, 600 mm, f/8, 1/500 sec, ISO 800, Hand Held Singing Bushlark ( Mirafra javanica philippinensis) Endemic Race - 30D + 300 f4 L IS + Kenko 1.4x TCs, 420 mm, f/8, 1/500 sec, ISO 200, Hand Held, No PP Cheers, Neon
|
|
|
Post by Farmer Nestor on Dec 22, 2007 23:01:56 GMT
The way Phil. birds behave,I guess I need "Nardong Putik's" "anting anting" in order for me to get as close as you do ;D ;D this is the best full frame I can get with my EF70-300mm IS USM orange weaver Ploceus aurantius village weaver Ploceus cuculatus pics taken in Nigeria ;D ;D ;D
|
|
|
Post by Romy Ocon on Dec 22, 2007 23:34:05 GMT
Brilliant, Neon! The BR Thrush is among the best I've seen of this bird, and the OB Sunbird is a very pleasing compo, sharp where it matters. I was with Neon when that Singing Bushlark was captured at Malasi Lake and our shots look similar. ;D Romy Here are some of my full frame shots. ;D Will try to process them again using my latest PP work flow and see the difference, will post the new version later. Blue Rock Thrush - Male ( Monticola solitarius) 30D + 300 f4 L IS + Kenko 2x TCs, 600 mm, f/8, 1/90 sec, ISO 640, Hand Held Olive-backed Sunbird - adult Male ( Cinnyris jugularis) - 30D + 300 f4 L IS + Kenko 2x TCs, 600 mm, f/8, 1/500 sec, ISO 800, Hand Held Singing Bushlark ( Mirafra javanica philippinensis) Endemic Race - 30D + 300 f4 L IS + Kenko 1.4x TCs, 420 mm, f/8, 1/500 sec, ISO 200, Hand Held, No PP Cheers, Neon
|
|
|
Post by Romy Ocon on Dec 22, 2007 23:39:42 GMT
Nice shots of very interesting birds, Nestor... you've to take a seminar from Neon on Patience Management and Stalking Tactics and Strategies so you can full frame our birds with a 300 mm + TC..... ;D OTOH, JP's one-semester course on Blind-Dating Birds/Hide 101 is now in beta stage, and soon would be offered to PBP members. ;D ;D ;D Romy The way Phil. birds behave,I guess I need "Nardong Putik's" "anting anting" in order for me to get as close as you do ;D ;D this is the best full frame I can get with my EF70-300mm IS USM orange weaver Ploceus aurantius village weaver Ploceus cuculatus pics taken in Nigeria ;D ;D ;D
|
|
|
Post by Bobby Kintanar on Dec 23, 2007 0:19:14 GMT
A nice shortcut and a better way to avoiding blinds is to purchase a Sigmonster! :-)
|
|
|
Post by JP Cariño on Dec 23, 2007 3:01:02 GMT
hahaha almost spilled my drink while reading this thread ;D
|
|
|
Post by Romy Ocon on Dec 23, 2007 3:17:55 GMT
A nice shortcut and a better way to avoiding blinds is to purchase a Sigmonster! :-) Hehe... the tummy doesn't allow me to squat for long periods in a blind/hide, so I think Bobby is right. You can get close to the birds unnoticed - via a blind, or by magnifying them from afar with kilograms of fine glass.... ;D Romy
|
|
|
Post by Romy Ocon on Dec 23, 2007 4:36:01 GMT
Here's a fresh, full frame capture - Island Collared-Dove with overcast skies as background, from my recent visit to Candaba. 40D + 500 f4 L IS + Canon 1.4x TC, 700 mm, f/7.1, ISO 320, 1/200 sec, Ix! bean bag: Romy
|
|
|
Post by Farmer Nestor on Dec 23, 2007 7:36:11 GMT
A nice shortcut and a better way to avoiding blinds is to purchase a Sigmonster! :-) That would be more painful Bobby, doing the ironing and laundry just to get the approval from the "wifey". I guess I will settle for the two seminars as suggested by idol Romy;D ;D ;D
|
|
|
Post by Neon Rosell II on Dec 23, 2007 23:46:08 GMT
Here is one more, Taken during Bobby's recent visit to manila. We were at UP together with Ate Lyds. Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach - 30D + 300 f4 L IS + Kenko 2x TCs, 600 mm, f/8, 1/750 sec, ISO 800, Hand held Merry Christmas to everyone!!! Cheers, Neon
|
|
|
Post by Romy Ocon on Dec 24, 2007 0:39:06 GMT
This is perfect, Neon... amazing detail, good head turn, nice BG (the OOF branchlet can be easily cloned out if desired), excellent pose and good light. This would make a beautiful 16"x24" to hang in your living room! Here is one more, Taken during Bobby's recent visit to manila. We were at UP together with Ate Lyds. Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach - 30D + 300 f4 L IS + Kenko 2x TCs, 600 mm, f/8, 1/750 sec, ISO 800, Hand held Merry Christmas to everyone!!! Cheers, Neon
|
|
|
Post by Neon Rosell II on Dec 28, 2007 16:07:43 GMT
Here is a full frame of a very difficult to capture bird, because it constantly moves between shade and light. I have to stay motionless for hours below this lone tree in the middle of the field to get this bird up close and properly exposed. Of course after nearly 100 shots I can only count with my fingers the passable shots. Golden-bellied "Flyeater" Gerygone Gerygone sulphurea - 30D + 300 f4 L IS + Kenko 2x TCs, 600 mm, f/8, ISO 500, 1/500 sec, Manual exposure, Hand Held A little bit blown on the part where direct sunlight hit - 30D + 300 f4 L IS + Kenko 2x TCs, 600 mm, f/8, ISO 500, 1/250 sec, Manual exposure, Hand Held Cheers, Neon
|
|
|
Post by Romy Ocon on Dec 28, 2007 21:00:07 GMT
These are great, Neon... I know how hard to get these perpetual motion machines are! Romy
|
|
|
Post by Ding Carpio on Dec 29, 2007 8:36:50 GMT
Here's my crack at it. Re-processed and brightened a bit. Romy: You think it's still too dark?
|
|
|
Post by Romy Ocon on Dec 29, 2007 15:09:00 GMT
Here's my crack at it. Re-processed and brightened a bit. Romy: You think it's still too dark? That should make a helluva large print, Ding.... excellent pose, detail and composition! On the brightness, I now think that your LCD is indeed set too bright. This is much better than the previous one, but still a tad dark. You can easily confirm this by looking at the histogram in PS - largely bunched to the left. Try this adjustment for this particular photo - create a duplicate layer, set the input levels to 12, 1.1, 225. The 12 will create some true blacks in the photo, the 1.1 will brighten the midtones and the 225 will push the histogram to the right so it just touches the 255 wall. Then make this layer visible and invisible alternately so you can see the difference easily. Romy
|
|
|
Post by Nilo Arribas Jr. on Jan 3, 2008 12:26:16 GMT
I can't process newly captured pics so here's my share using Romy's 300D and Bigma at 500mm taken in 2004 in Tabunan, Cebu.
|
|
|
Post by Romy Ocon on Jan 3, 2008 14:38:46 GMT
I can't process newly captured pics so here's my share using Romy's 300D and Bigma at 500mm taken in 2004 in Tabunan, Cebu. I still remember that shot, Nilo..... that was the largest number of pixels I've seen hitting an Arctic Warbler! ;D
|
|